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Long deemed the worst sort of sordid flatwater masturbation, the flatwater
cartwheel has been accepted, if only by some, as a useful practice drill
for preparing to cartwheel in the hole- and if you ask in the right
corners, some of us will confess that we do it for fun. Now that
boats are becoming shorter and slicier, this maneuver is no longer the
sole realm of the rodeo gods- but it should go without saying that short
and low-volume boats will make this move much more accessible.
The flatwheel is mostly about timing, balance, and inertia, but it is
also a strength move in a certain sense- it takes strength to get it
going, and being strong makes it easier to get away with having bad
form... but by the same token, when it looks easy, that's because it is
easy. If you're doing it right, and you're in a boat designed to get
ends, flatwater cartwheels will not be physically that difficult- they are
attainable, as long as you're willing to bend the way you think about
paddling a kayak.
Let's begin with the strokes, and some drills that can be done in order
to prepare you for cartwheeling:
Sweep Circles- believe it or not, two of the first
strokes you learned to use- the front and reverse sweep- are the strokes
you'll be using, but with little modifications. The difference is
that when cartwheeling, you'll be doing these strokes to rotate yourself in an elevated
plane, rather than to rotate yourself in the same plane as the surface
of the water. However, this is a good practice drill to use to
train yourself to do the following:
- Wind your torso, place your stroke, and unwind your torso
- Lead your rotation with your head- that is, look in the direction
in which you'll be rotating, in order to spot the next stroke
placement.
To do sweep circles, begin by winding your torso to one side or the
other (it's good to practice in both directions) and begin by placing
your paddle into the water for a front sweep stroke, somewhere near your
feet. Once the stroke is placed, use the power of your torso to
sweep the stroke wide and back, towards your stern. While you're
sweeping towards the stern, look in the direction you're turning- you'll
find that by looking ahead, you keep yourself from finishing the stroke
all the way back at your stern. This is what you want- a common
problem for people when cartwheeling is that they get behind on their
rotation, when the object is to stay ahead.
Once you've run out of forward sweep, immediately reach around in the
direction you are looking and place your paddle near your stern and
continue the rotation of the boat with a reverse sweep. Again,
keep looking in the direction in which you're turning. When you're
done with the reverse sweep, switch immediately to a front sweep,
continuing in the same direction.
Begin slow, then as you get used to the movements, pick up the
speed. Practice this drill going both directions until it all
becomes automatic. As you do this, you may discover that it's
easier if you drive one end or the other down into the water- experiment
with slicing angles while doing this drill and you may discover that
you've got it already.
Rock-a-Babies- With rock-a-babies, we introduce the
ideas
of elevation angle, balance, rotational centers, inertial
borrowing, and timing.
The idea behind rock-a-babies is to get you in touch with the idea
that much of the energy that you'll use to get to the next end is a gift
from the last end- that is, the forces of gravity and buoyancy can be
harnessed to make each end easier. As the name suggests, you'll be
rocking the boat from bow to stern, as well as rocking your own center
of mass from bow to stern, in order to amplify this.
We begin in the same way as we did with a sweep circle, with one
exception- instead of sweeping in a flat circle, we edge the boat over
towards the side on which you begin your front sweep, to initiate the
stern on that side. As we do this, we also lean back, adding our
weight to the stern, driving it downwards, while lifting the bow up and
out of the water.
The bow sweep stroke, traveling from bow towards the stern (it won't
make it to the stern) will begin to prepare you for the next stroke,
which goes back in the other direction, by winding up your torso for the
reverse sweep stroke. Soon, the rising bow/diving stern maneuver will stall- and before it does, you
have two things to do:
- use the last of your sweep stroke and your abdominal muscles and
the buoyancy of the stern to rock your weight forwards, in
anticipation of adding your weight to the next end, and
- feather your forward sweep stroke to the surface, (note that your
body is already wound up in the right way) and place a stern sweep-
we'll call this the 'smash' stroke- on the same side as your bow
sweep was on.
As your stern rises toward the surface and your bow falls toward the
surface, apply the stern sweep while throwing your weight forwards,
towards the bow. This will drive the bow downwards until it, too,
stalls. Use the last part of your smash stroke, your back muscles,
and the buoyancy of the bow to spring yourself towards the stern, and
feather the paddle to the surface in order to do another bow sweep to
drive the stern under. Note that your smash stroke has already wound
your torso up for the bow sweep stroke... and that you're back where you
started. You can continue this drill for as long as you like, and
as you become more comfortable with it, you'll discover that as you're
able to get vertical, all that remains is to put the two sides
together.
Important points:
- You should not be leaning on your paddle, except inasmuch as you
are applying the rotational force of your torso against it. If
you lean on your paddle, you won't be able to get to the next
stroke, and more importantly, you won't be able to put your weight
on the boat, in order to drive the ends.
- You should be keeping the boat edged to a relatively consistent
angle of elevation, but with your weight largely over the boat, not
over the paddle.
- Each stroke should be an expression of a wound-up torso unwinding-
unless you're Hercules, you're probably not strong enough to do it
with your arms alone.
- There are two distinct strokes here, not one. If you hold
your paddle vertically in the middle, you deny yourself the ability
to wind and unwind your torso to give yourself power, you limit your
ability to rock your weight fore and aft, and you also have nothing
to brace against if you get off-balance. The first stroke is a
sweep from the bow using the power face of the paddle, the other is
a smash from the stern using the back face of the paddle.
- The boat does not rotate around the center, it rotates around the
center of buoyancy, which changes- when you're on your bow it's
somewhere behind your heels, when you're on the stern it's somewhere
behind your seat. The object of this drill is to train you to
apply your weight and inertia against these rotational centers, as
opposed to trying to turn the boat on a fixed axis in the middle.
The real deal-
Okay, once you're able to do these drills with some degree of comfort
and stability (i.e., you don't end up upside-down all the time) it's time
to put them all together and actually do a flatwater cartwheel.
Begin by getting up a bit (not a lot) of forward speed to help you get
that first end down. Once you are at speed, edge the boat to one
side and perform the first bow-sweep, while rocking your weight slightly
back towards the stern. Using the finish of the sweep stroke and
your abdominal muscles, get your weight forwards and set up a stern
'smash' stroke, while committing your weight forwards. It helps to
commit your weight from a high spot (sitting upright) to a low spot (just
over the water, forwards and over the center of buoyancy of your boat on
end.
As your bow comes back downwards towards the water, it will help to
initiate it about 10-15 degrees off from the direction you were paddling-
if you're paddling towards 12 o'clock and initiating to the left, you'll
want to initiate at or around 1:00- if you're throwing right, initiate at
11:00 or so. The added angle makes it easier to line up your smash stroke, your center
of gravity, and the center of buoyancy of the boat when it's on the bow
station.
Rather than thinking about driving the bow down, it may help you to think
about lifting your butt up- this helps me, but experiment for yourself.
Once you're on end, it's time to continue on to the next end- begin by
spotting where your next stroke will happen, and by leaning toward the
direction you've been going, and winding up your body for what will be a
crossbow sweep. Your back will be facing the direction you were
paddling, and as soon as you've placed the stroke, unwind your body to
drive the stern down while transferring your weight from the bow to the
stern, in exactly the same fashion as you did when going from bow to stern
in the rock-a-babies drill described above.
As soon as the stern stroke engages, you should immediately look
towards the next stroke- timing when going from stern to bow stations is
key. Use the bounce of the stern end and the finish of the last
stroke to sit up and forwards, and to rotate your body ahead of the bow,
which by now should be passing vertical and falling towards the surface.
Place your smash stroke in the place where you spotted it, unwind your
body, drive your butt up/feet down (whatever works for you) and there you
have it- the magical 'third end'.
Summary
There are a lot of details not covered in this article, as well as
tricks for recovering from going past-vertical or not-vertical enough that
I'll address in another article in the future. For now, practice
practice! ...and if you have questions, tips, or suggestions on how to
improve this article, please
let
me know.
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